Yama Shokudo

Settling in with a drink to study the daily chalkboard and handpick seasonal small plates is one of the distinct pleasures of an evening out. Set within the residential streets of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, Yama Shokudo pairs the gentle buzz of a neighborhood drinking tavern with a calm, unhurried atmosphere.

Once seated, attention naturally turns to the drink list, assembled to harmonize with the food. For a first toast, draft craft beers include crisp white ales and distinctive local styles. Sake can be ordered by the half-gou glass or full-gou katakuchi pour, alongside tasting flights that let you explore different bottles across the course of the meal. The shelves also feature characterful house specialties, from Dejima Hosendo rustic unfiltered doburoku to sour cocktails made with house-cured umeboshi and craft gin sodas infused with seasonal botanicals.

The food centers on refined small plates and seasonal dishes that emphasize raw ingredient flavors. Fresh sashimi, kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) namero tartare, grilled miso fragrant with sansho berries, and crisp fried oboro tofu provide natural partners for sake. Plates like charred-cheese salads or patiently simmered stews bring modest twists that reward each bite. Nibbling through daily vegetable sides or seasonal kakiage fritters while testing new pairings captures the leisurely spirit of the room.

To finish, the kitchen turns out warming onigiri rice balls, fruit sorbets, and confections crafted with Onomichi bean-to-bar chocolate. Yama Shokudo operates during evening hours only and accepts cash payment, making advance reservations and cash on hand recommended before heading over. It is an appealing stop for an unhurried night out with a close companion.